Momotaro Jeans Used Buying Guide: Sizing, Model Codes and Fading Checks

Momotaro is one of the best-known names in Japanese selvedge denim, and used pieces regularly appear on Japanese resale platforms. Because the brand is popular, prices move quickly and sellers often describe condition in their own words. This guide walks you through what to check before you commit, so you can buy with confidence even when you cannot try the jeans on.

Dark indigo denim jacket with white stripe detail on sleeve, laid flat

Start With the Right Terms

Searching in Japanese will get you far more results than an English search. Useful terms include 桃太郎ジーンズ 中古 (used) and 美品 (near-mint). Be aware that やや傷や汚れあり means "some scratches or stains," while 目立った傷や汚れなし means "no noticeable scratches or stains." These phrases are the seller's own wording, so read the photos carefully.

Sizing: Measure, Don't Guess

Japanese sizing is usually given as a waist number, often with a length, such as W32 or W36. Some sellers list a measured figure instead, for example "実寸約84cm," which is the actual flat measurement. Vintage and selvedge denim frequently runs smaller than modern labels suggest, and unwashed raw denim can shrink further after the first wash.

Practical steps:

• Compare the listed measurement with a pair of jeans you already own that fit well, laid flat.
• Pay attention to the rise and thigh measurements, not just the waist.
• Ask the seller for a flat-laid measurement if only a size tag is given.

Model Codes and Labels

Momotaro uses product codes and line names (for example, numbers attached to a line such as 出陣 or a fabric name such as 特濃ブルー). Codes help you identify the exact cut and era. Treat any code as a starting point: confirm it against an official brand reference or a specialist database before assuming the cut, weight or wash.

Dark indigo straight-leg denim jeans displayed on a wooden board

Also check the label stitching and the tag design. Reproductions and mismatched labels are not unheard of in resale, so do not rely on a single photo.

Checking Fading and Wear

Fading is part of the appeal, but it is worth understanding what you are looking at:

• Whiskering and honeycombs at the back of the knee are natural signs of wear on raw denim.
• Look for even fading across the thighs and seat. Irregular bleaching on one side can point to heavy use or sun exposure.
• Check the inseam, the crotch and the back pockets for thinning or holes, which are harder to repair than surface wear.
• Inspect the selvedge line and the hem for fraying.

Photos taken in strong light show fading far better than photos with flash, so ask for close-ups if the listing does not have them.

What the Asking Prices Show

Based on Mercari Japan listings found with one Japanese search term, the asking-price spread for working units of this item type was wide. The lowest bare-unit asking price was around ¥3,000, the median around ¥13,200, and the highest around ¥32,999. Listings described as "no noticeable scratches or stains" had a median asking price of about ¥12,000, while "some scratches or stains" listings had a median of about ¥15,550.

Dark indigo denim jeans with white stripe on back pocket and leather patch

These are asking prices, not sold prices, and they reflect only one marketplace and one search term. They are useful for understanding the market, but they do not tell you what a specific pair is worth. Accessories and faulty items were excluded from these ranges.

Questions to Ask the Seller

Before purchasing, ask:

• Can you send a flat-laid measurement for the waist, rise and inseam?
• Are there close-up photos of the knees, seat and hem?
• Has the item been washed, and is it still raw?
• Are there any repairs or alterations?

Clear, specific answers are a good sign. Vague replies are a reason to slow down.

Costs Beyond the Price

International buyers should also budget for domestic shipping in Japan, any proxy or forwarding fees, international shipping, and import duties or VAT in their own country. These vary by destination and by carrier, so check the current rules in your country before ordering. A useful tool is a service that watches keywords on supported Japanese marketplaces and alerts you to new listings, which can help you catch a fair price early without rushing your inspection.

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Want to know the moment a new listing appears? Set up a free keyword watch on JapanScanner — it scans Mercari, Rakuma, Yahoo! Auctions, and Yahoo!フリマ and alerts you by email or Telegram.